The shroud covering the oil and transmisson appears to have plastic fasteners that will need replacing once removed. What size are they? Is there a drain plug on the bottom of the pan, or would it be easier to suck the fluid from the fill pipe? Anybody do one of these? Thanks for any advice.Transmission fluid change on a toyota rav 4. Is there a drain plug on the pan. How do you remove the shroud?
they did away with drain plugs several yrs. ago. now you have to drop the pan.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
My 1995 Ford Escort - may- have a small Transmission Fluid leak. This is because the Oil Change shop couldn't come to a conclusion about whether it was leaking or not, they just saw (smelled? They were under the car when it was off) what looked like Transmission Fluid wither seeping, or trying to seep, from the pan. I didnt look at it myself, but I saw the tech (young kid) wondering if it really was a leak.
My transmission has 148,000 miles. My bigegst concern is how to change the Vacuum line someone in another post said may be contributing greatly to rough shifts *and I was going to ask that person where to find it, and if it is common for shops to change it, to help it shift better, since it makes sense it would affect it.
As for the Fluid itself: I recently added a little under a quart, as it was low. I did so after my drive from NJ to Westernmost PA.Now my transmission is OK, and it felt good on the Highway. (I wonder if the fluid level went 'up' on the highway, like Tire Pressure does, due to heat and expansion, thus making it feel OK.)
-I- feel like if the Transmission Is leaking, or seeping, or wanting to leak, the leak would be from the Gasket. If that is so, I would love a shop that has no qualms about working on it to:
1) Drop the Transmission Pan,
2) Change the Gasket and Screen and Filter, as all three are on an AT if I recall right;
3) -NOT- FLUSH THE FLUID THAT IS IN THERE AND THE TORQUE CONVERTER, as I believe the stories about new ATF killing Old ATs when they are flushed and changed completely; and
4) Re-filling the lost ATF with Valvoline MaxLife, probably about 3 quarts for the pan-dropping, maybe with 1 bottle of Stop-Leak MaxLife ATF added... And Vaccum line 'changed,' Gasket and Transmission replaced, Transmission saved, 1/3 the fluid changed. I would -love- to do this.
Is that the best way to go here? Will I be able to find a shop to pay to -do- that? A transmission place will charge more and want to do it all, right? So should I just look for a general mechanic, and talk him into it?
Or should I just pour the Stop-Leak ATF in there and hope it seals itself? I heard that too much of that is NOT good.
Anything else I need to be aware of with this issue, of wanting to service my still-good transmission before it becomes worse in a way that won't kill it?
Thanks! - JosephIf my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
drop the pan and change the fluid and filter with a new gasket. by all means don,t, i repete don,t flush it or you could wind up with more leaks. what about looking under it and see if the pan is wet. if it,s just a pan gasket then that,s not too bad but lets just hope it,s not the front seal or you will be looking at some money there.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
If you have not had the transmission serviced, at 140,000 miles it needs it. So just find a shop that will service it right. That is the filter removed, cleaned/replaced, and refilled. But avoid chain transmission and auto service franchises (like AAMCO).
Yes, transmission fluid does expand as it gets warmer.
Also the leak maybe some where else. Like a rotten line to the transmission cooler, or a leaking seal. But before you go out and spend a fortune on transmission replacement, realize that transmission even new use some fluid. That is why the level needs to be checked on a regular basis.
As for hanging shifts, changing the fluid and a new filter may correct this problem too.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
Change the filter and pan gasket don't mess with that stop leak crap.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
clean the under side of the engine and transmission. then drive around for awhile and check again. if you keep an eye on it for a while you can determine where the leak is coming from.then you will know where to start. don't use stop leak until last resort ,(that would only be temporary anyhow ) and you would eventually have to replace seals.
Find the leak firstserver windows live
My transmission has 148,000 miles. My bigegst concern is how to change the Vacuum line someone in another post said may be contributing greatly to rough shifts *and I was going to ask that person where to find it, and if it is common for shops to change it, to help it shift better, since it makes sense it would affect it.
As for the Fluid itself: I recently added a little under a quart, as it was low. I did so after my drive from NJ to Westernmost PA.Now my transmission is OK, and it felt good on the Highway. (I wonder if the fluid level went 'up' on the highway, like Tire Pressure does, due to heat and expansion, thus making it feel OK.)
-I- feel like if the Transmission Is leaking, or seeping, or wanting to leak, the leak would be from the Gasket. If that is so, I would love a shop that has no qualms about working on it to:
1) Drop the Transmission Pan,
2) Change the Gasket and Screen and Filter, as all three are on an AT if I recall right;
3) -NOT- FLUSH THE FLUID THAT IS IN THERE AND THE TORQUE CONVERTER, as I believe the stories about new ATF killing Old ATs when they are flushed and changed completely; and
4) Re-filling the lost ATF with Valvoline MaxLife, probably about 3 quarts for the pan-dropping, maybe with 1 bottle of Stop-Leak MaxLife ATF added... And Vaccum line 'changed,' Gasket and Transmission replaced, Transmission saved, 1/3 the fluid changed. I would -love- to do this.
Is that the best way to go here? Will I be able to find a shop to pay to -do- that? A transmission place will charge more and want to do it all, right? So should I just look for a general mechanic, and talk him into it?
Or should I just pour the Stop-Leak ATF in there and hope it seals itself? I heard that too much of that is NOT good.
Anything else I need to be aware of with this issue, of wanting to service my still-good transmission before it becomes worse in a way that won't kill it?
Thanks! - JosephIf my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
drop the pan and change the fluid and filter with a new gasket. by all means don,t, i repete don,t flush it or you could wind up with more leaks. what about looking under it and see if the pan is wet. if it,s just a pan gasket then that,s not too bad but lets just hope it,s not the front seal or you will be looking at some money there.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
If you have not had the transmission serviced, at 140,000 miles it needs it. So just find a shop that will service it right. That is the filter removed, cleaned/replaced, and refilled. But avoid chain transmission and auto service franchises (like AAMCO).
Yes, transmission fluid does expand as it gets warmer.
Also the leak maybe some where else. Like a rotten line to the transmission cooler, or a leaking seal. But before you go out and spend a fortune on transmission replacement, realize that transmission even new use some fluid. That is why the level needs to be checked on a regular basis.
As for hanging shifts, changing the fluid and a new filter may correct this problem too.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
Change the filter and pan gasket don't mess with that stop leak crap.If my Automatic transmission -may- have a small leak, Do I... 1) Have gasket(s) changed, or 2) Stop-Leak ATF?
clean the under side of the engine and transmission. then drive around for awhile and check again. if you keep an eye on it for a while you can determine where the leak is coming from.then you will know where to start. don't use stop leak until last resort ,(that would only be temporary anyhow ) and you would eventually have to replace seals.
Find the leak first
Questions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
ok it was running fine i dropped the transmission pan and changed the oil and filter. i put new oil in it and ran it once it reaches operating temperature its starts slipping..could this be caused perhaps i put to much fluid in it?? if so how does that happen?Questions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
the age of this car is where most shops will not entertain a transmission drain and fill, a flush, or a filter swap. Reason being the result of your experience. Fluid level too high, check the fluid level is critical as the transmission must breathe, to full of fluid cannot. Can only advise the treatment of Trans-X, one time. If this does not cure it, then its tranny time. luv serQuestions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
it probably don,t have enough fluid in it. get it hot, park on a level surface, leave it running and check it. fill it to the full mark.Questions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
Anyone ever notice whenever Bandit 60 shows up everyone gets a thumbs down.
Just an observation
the age of this car is where most shops will not entertain a transmission drain and fill, a flush, or a filter swap. Reason being the result of your experience. Fluid level too high, check the fluid level is critical as the transmission must breathe, to full of fluid cannot. Can only advise the treatment of Trans-X, one time. If this does not cure it, then its tranny time. luv serQuestions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
it probably don,t have enough fluid in it. get it hot, park on a level surface, leave it running and check it. fill it to the full mark.Questions about a 88 pontiac fiero?
Anyone ever notice whenever Bandit 60 shows up everyone gets a thumbs down.
Just an observation
Have a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
i changed the oil and replaced the pan gasket, changed the thermostat had to disconect 2 sensors to get to the thermostat did not disconect battery.. put everything back the way i took it off did not break any wires off ...or for get anything went to start the car and car wont start any ideals, on why it wont start by not disconnecting the battery when i took off the sensors have anything to do with it? and if so how do i reset the the brain tryed to disconect the batery and reconnecting car turns over just wont startHave a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
Sounds to me as if a trip to the local Honda repairman for a little talk is advisable.
If your battery power is low, charge it.
Check the connections that you disconnected to make sure -- if you can do it without loosing all the new oil you put in.
You didn't touch by mistake the wires from the ignition system?
Sorry, not much help -- if your car turns over, I would try again, this time floor the accelerator and keep it there - no pumping -- while you let the engine turn over for a little while. If it is flooded this should help.
Edit: perhaps by means of a voltmeter you may be able to determine from the outside if inside sensors (if that's what they were) are connected properly?Have a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
it sound liek ur crank sencor got disconected other then that then ur rotor module got burned out .unless it's newer brand andrun on a module and coil .Have a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
sounds like your crank sensor(located by the pan gasket on the engine block) it may have come disconnected without your knowing.
Sounds to me as if a trip to the local Honda repairman for a little talk is advisable.
If your battery power is low, charge it.
Check the connections that you disconnected to make sure -- if you can do it without loosing all the new oil you put in.
You didn't touch by mistake the wires from the ignition system?
Sorry, not much help -- if your car turns over, I would try again, this time floor the accelerator and keep it there - no pumping -- while you let the engine turn over for a little while. If it is flooded this should help.
Edit: perhaps by means of a voltmeter you may be able to determine from the outside if inside sensors (if that's what they were) are connected properly?Have a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
it sound liek ur crank sencor got disconected other then that then ur rotor module got burned out .unless it's newer brand andrun on a module and coil .Have a 1990 hoda accord wont start?
sounds like your crank sensor(located by the pan gasket on the engine block) it may have come disconnected without your knowing.
What to use to fix a spot chipped off on the tranny's mating surface to oil pan?
The last mechanic who changed my tranny's oil .stripped three holes thread.He used 3/8 bolt to replace the 5/16 one.because this he chipped a piece of the aluminum off the mating surface,right by the thread hole(outer edge),about 2/3 size of a penney.now it is leaking.
Got a set of heli-coil to take care of those stripped holes.
How to fix this chip?
Will %26quot;J B weld%26quot; work?(high temp)?
or what else work better?What to use to fix a spot chipped off on the tranny%26039;s mating surface to oil pan?
JB Weld should do the trick. Heli-coil the stripped holes, Put a bolt in the hole then JB Weld where the aluminum chipped off. Pull the bolt out, (that was to keep the JB Weld out of the threads). Let the JB Weld dry for at least a day then sand the mating surface.What to use to fix a spot chipped off on the tranny%26039;s mating surface to oil pan?
Yeah it'll work for awhile...
The best thing to to do is to heliarc or TIG and grind it down.
Then make a gasket probably neoprene or some other oil
resistant material and thicker.
Got a set of heli-coil to take care of those stripped holes.
How to fix this chip?
Will %26quot;J B weld%26quot; work?(high temp)?
or what else work better?What to use to fix a spot chipped off on the tranny%26039;s mating surface to oil pan?
JB Weld should do the trick. Heli-coil the stripped holes, Put a bolt in the hole then JB Weld where the aluminum chipped off. Pull the bolt out, (that was to keep the JB Weld out of the threads). Let the JB Weld dry for at least a day then sand the mating surface.What to use to fix a spot chipped off on the tranny%26039;s mating surface to oil pan?
Yeah it'll work for awhile...
The best thing to to do is to heliarc or TIG and grind it down.
Then make a gasket probably neoprene or some other oil
resistant material and thicker.
1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
This one dude is selling a 300zx (with a little problem). He went and got an oil change. however, unfortunately, I guess the oil pan wasn't tied hard enough or something like that after the oil change. Now, on his way home from the oil change shop, he began to hear a knocking sound from the pistons. the faster he goes the worse the sound gets.
Is the whole engine needs to be replaced?
If so, how much would a good used 90' 300zx engine cost?
Is it possible to replace the non-turbo engine with a twin turbo?
How much the installation will cost?
thanx1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
If the Z was leaking oil, then more likely the noise is the lifters. As you loose oil pressure, the lifters will start to make the noise. The car needs to get oil right away, it can not be driven like that.
Now, if the oil was replaced and has the normal level, and still the noise is loud and steady (never goes away), you got a knocking problem there and could be the lifters that got damage, or something else like the valves and even the pistons.
Those problems are common on the VG30DE engines after many years of use, and that story of loosing oil might just be a bunch of BS he is telling you to try to sell the car.
If you wish to buy the car, make sure to get it for cheap, otherwise, is not worth it. You have about 90% chances that you will have to fix that engine, so you will have to add at least $2K to it.
A new engine is always better, you can get a short block or a long block (I recommend you the long block to avoid problems and complications) or you could repait the old engine if you wish to upgrade it. A NA engine (non turbo) is not really worth upgrading as the price will not be worth the extra power you can gain. I suggest leaving it NA and just replace the engine (long block as I said) and be over with it.
You can buy a NA long block at Nissan, Stillen, Z1, etc, etc. Engine plus labor will run about $2K to over $3K depending on who and what you do.
To go for a TT (twin turbo) is a different story, and you need to have at least $10K for the conversion. Basically you need to buy not just the engine, but the turbos, air piping, water piping, oil piping, intercoolers, radiator (you must change it to fit the pipes), AC Condenser (same as radiator, you must change it), ECU (computer) for the TT, and many more small things but that add lots of $$$$.
A twin turbo conversion is only worth the money when you have a good Z and want to upgrade it, and you want not just a stock 300HP engine, but something better. It is your chance to upgrade the turbos, intercoolers, cams, ECU, etc, etc. Price for a real upgrade and conversion is over $15K. A 600HP setup will run you very easy for $20K (600BHP which is about 450-500 RWHP).
Don檛 forget, the 300ZX is an old car and will need also many repairs for other things. You should keep extra $1K or more in a safe place dedicated to the car as it will ask for it. Trust me, I know. Replacing the harness is a good idea at this point, and it might be hard as Nissan is discontinuing it already.
Good luck.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
If you have the know how, and tools, I'd say go for it.
If you have to pay someone to do it, don't. The cost of repairs will exceed the value of the car.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
Sounds to me like a B.S. story. If a shop failed to tighten the plug or filter, they would be responsible for any damages. And why did the dumbass keep driving it if it was knocking?? Check with a reputable engine rebuilder in your area, or check online with Jasper Engines.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
if it was a loud clicking, theres also the possiblitty of it just being the lifters. when an engine is low on oil, that is an indicator, the lifters will be drained of oil and you'll hear them clicking and they can get quite loud and will get faster as the rpm's increase. this unfortunately how i tell when to add oil to my car :P i need to fix that leak if i can find it....
basically you need to have a mechanic, or someone whos mechanically inclined look at it and listen to it.
Is the whole engine needs to be replaced?
If so, how much would a good used 90' 300zx engine cost?
Is it possible to replace the non-turbo engine with a twin turbo?
How much the installation will cost?
thanx1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
If the Z was leaking oil, then more likely the noise is the lifters. As you loose oil pressure, the lifters will start to make the noise. The car needs to get oil right away, it can not be driven like that.
Now, if the oil was replaced and has the normal level, and still the noise is loud and steady (never goes away), you got a knocking problem there and could be the lifters that got damage, or something else like the valves and even the pistons.
Those problems are common on the VG30DE engines after many years of use, and that story of loosing oil might just be a bunch of BS he is telling you to try to sell the car.
If you wish to buy the car, make sure to get it for cheap, otherwise, is not worth it. You have about 90% chances that you will have to fix that engine, so you will have to add at least $2K to it.
A new engine is always better, you can get a short block or a long block (I recommend you the long block to avoid problems and complications) or you could repait the old engine if you wish to upgrade it. A NA engine (non turbo) is not really worth upgrading as the price will not be worth the extra power you can gain. I suggest leaving it NA and just replace the engine (long block as I said) and be over with it.
You can buy a NA long block at Nissan, Stillen, Z1, etc, etc. Engine plus labor will run about $2K to over $3K depending on who and what you do.
To go for a TT (twin turbo) is a different story, and you need to have at least $10K for the conversion. Basically you need to buy not just the engine, but the turbos, air piping, water piping, oil piping, intercoolers, radiator (you must change it to fit the pipes), AC Condenser (same as radiator, you must change it), ECU (computer) for the TT, and many more small things but that add lots of $$$$.
A twin turbo conversion is only worth the money when you have a good Z and want to upgrade it, and you want not just a stock 300HP engine, but something better. It is your chance to upgrade the turbos, intercoolers, cams, ECU, etc, etc. Price for a real upgrade and conversion is over $15K. A 600HP setup will run you very easy for $20K (600BHP which is about 450-500 RWHP).
Don檛 forget, the 300ZX is an old car and will need also many repairs for other things. You should keep extra $1K or more in a safe place dedicated to the car as it will ask for it. Trust me, I know. Replacing the harness is a good idea at this point, and it might be hard as Nissan is discontinuing it already.
Good luck.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
If you have the know how, and tools, I'd say go for it.
If you have to pay someone to do it, don't. The cost of repairs will exceed the value of the car.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
Sounds to me like a B.S. story. If a shop failed to tighten the plug or filter, they would be responsible for any damages. And why did the dumbass keep driving it if it was knocking?? Check with a reputable engine rebuilder in your area, or check online with Jasper Engines.1990 Nissan 300ZX engine (no turbo)?
if it was a loud clicking, theres also the possiblitty of it just being the lifters. when an engine is low on oil, that is an indicator, the lifters will be drained of oil and you'll hear them clicking and they can get quite loud and will get faster as the rpm's increase. this unfortunately how i tell when to add oil to my car :P i need to fix that leak if i can find it....
basically you need to have a mechanic, or someone whos mechanically inclined look at it and listen to it.
My 2001 Audi A6 Quattro is leaking, how much will it cost to fix it?
I just got my oil changed and they stated that I had a major engine oil leak, major trans pan leak and rear differential leak. How much will it cost to fix all of this?My 2001 Audi A6 Quattro is leaking, how much will it cost to fix it?
its probably not as much as you think. The engine oil leak could be something simple as a valve cover or oil pan gasket, the trans could be the transmission pan gasket and the rear end could just be the diff cover... I would send the money to have it looked at at a creditable shop. Spending $500 on fixing it is still cheeper than $500 a month in payments for 3 to 5 years...server software
its probably not as much as you think. The engine oil leak could be something simple as a valve cover or oil pan gasket, the trans could be the transmission pan gasket and the rear end could just be the diff cover... I would send the money to have it looked at at a creditable shop. Spending $500 on fixing it is still cheeper than $500 a month in payments for 3 to 5 years...
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